The Pacata Hibernia (adapted) Map of CORK CITY
Circa 1600 AD
This ‘adapted’ map is the brain child of John Weldon who is a history teacher and a national tour guide. While it’s a product that will appeal to adults and youth alike, it was produced primarily with Cork city pupils and students in mind. Its main purpose is to raise young peoples’ awareness of their city’s origins and of Cork’s identity during the Middle Ages in particular. When this laminated map is displayed in the classroom it will provide young people with a fascinating window into their city’s medieval past. It will appeal to students of all ages. Moreover, it will captivate pupils and students of history and geography in particular.
The Pacata Hibernia (adapted) map of Cork is a powerful teaching aid because it’s local and it’s taken from a primary source. This impressive A1 visual aid evolved from a black and white plan of Cork drawn around 1600AD. Adapted, it now depicts in colour the medieval walled city of Cork with key buildings and waterways labelled. In addition some present-day street names have been superimposed over erstwhile waterways. Students will really get a sense of ‘change and continuity’ from this publication.
Available in Cork City at: Easons (Patrick Street), Vibes and Scribes (Lavitt’s Quay), Liam Russells (Oliver Plunkett St), John Smiths (UCC), Hills (Douglas S.C.), Porters (Wilton S.C.), and at the Cork Vision Centre (North Main Street). Price €19.95
Poem by John Weldon (2008):
“I recall when I was first drawn,” said the map of Cork
Now striking in blue and green and red
“I captured a medieval world
Corcaigh’s oval urban bed
Two connected islands calm within walls within water
Echo of ancient crannogs gone, sketched by English author
Five heads on spikes at entrance bridges betray a violent time
Tentacles of the Lee bear naval and merchant ships not mine
Lonely marshes approach the walls of a people increasing in number”:
‘Allow us some of thy population Cork to drain and dwell our slumber’.
SHORT HISTORY OF CORK
- The word ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word ‘Corcaigh’ which means a marsh.
- Around 600AD St Finbar came and built the first monastery on high ground near this marshy place. St Fin Barre’s Cathedral marks the general area today.
- Around 850AD Vikings came and built a town out of wood. They built it near the monastery on two marshy islands which were surrounded by the river Lee and other marshes.
- Around 1169AD the Normans (Old English Catholics) arrived in the east of Ireland. They quickly conquered much of the Ireland’s best lands including urban settlements like Waterford, Wexford, Dublin and Cork. They built a stone wall around Cork in 1250 AD.
- Over the years watch towers were added to the walls for extra security against the Irish who often attacked Norman positions.
- In 1690AD an army (New English Protestants) attacked the City with Cannon and breached its walls.
Pacata Hibernia (adapted) Map of Cork City circa 1600AD
Some observations:
Pacata Hibernia (adapted) Map of Cork City circa 1600AD is an ideal gift for anyone interested in learning more about the history of Cork city. It can be framed or hung as is. What is more, it’s an excellent starting point, particularly for the study of life during the Middle Ages. Pacata Hibernia provides one with a rare window into that medieval world; it’s an excellent resource for history classrooms.
Though the Middle Ages (approx 800AD-1492AD) had finished, Cork
arguably kept much of its medieval appearance at least until 1690AD when the city
wall was breached during the Siege of Cork.
It was only in the following early decades of the eighteenth century that the
remainder of the wall was demolished, built over or incorporated into new buildings.
Therefore this adapted ‘primary source’ (something directly from the past) map of
Cork gives an ideal overview of a medieval city/town. Among other medieval
features see Cork’s: impressive protective wall, its drawbridges, its moat, its safe
harbour, its main street, its abbeys, its cathedral and its unfortunate decapitated heads
on spikes.
Notice a number of modern street names have been superimposed over what were
previously waterways (tributaries of the River Lee). This is because these waterways
were transformed into culverts (drains under roads).
See how Cork city was built on two connected islands that were surrounded by both a
wall and a moat (good medieval defence).
Cork has changed and expanded a lot since; still you will notice how certain features
remain, if in a ruined state today. For example remains of the Red Abbey can be seen
on Red Abbey Street which is bounded by Douglas Street, Mary Street,
Margaret Street and Dunbar Street. Also you may be aware that about sixty feet of
city wall foundations can be seen just inside the main gate of the Bishop Lucy Park
on Grand Parade. According to local lore the cannon embedded upside-down in the
footpath outside the Bishop Lucy Park was used to moor ships when the Grand Parade
was a waterway; prior to that the English used this cannon to lay siege to Cork in
1690AD.
While Shandon Castle was demolished, St Anne’s Church Shandon (famous for its
bells) sits on the site today.
The St Mary’s of the Isle (Dominican) Monastery (Abby in the Isle) was
demolished. However the site where it stood (Cross’s Green) was excavated
in 1993 (Dean’s Hall area) with some interesting findings (See Atlas of Cork, Ps 93-
97). The current St Marie’s of the Isle Convent, home to the Sisters of Mercy, is
located nearby.
We sometimes still refer to one street near the Court House today as Fenn’s
Quay. However, no Waterway has flown there with over two centuries.
Notice how human heads appear on spikes at both the north and the south
drawbridges. During the Middle Ages criminals could be executed for a host of
offences; their heads were then placed at the main pedestrian entrances to the
city as a warning to all would-be felons.
Note how the Main street in 1600 AD connects the north and south
drawbridges. Today this street still performs this function though we have subdivided
it into North Main and South Main Streets and the current actual Main Street is St
Patrick’s Street (a former waterway).
Interestingly the current Queen’s Old Castle building stands approximately on the site
of the original King’s Castle featured in the Pacata Map. The foundation of the
actual Queen’s Castle was discovered during ‘main drainage’ work and excavated
some years ago on Castle Street near Castle Jewellers.
The ruins of Dundanion Castle remain (in a ruined condition) on private property off
the Blackrock Road, near Blackrock Village.
What is referred to as ‘Parte of the Kerry Whyrrie’ south of Dundanion Castle is
land that was owned by the Earl of Desmond and stretches as far as Carrigaline.
According to Henry Sidney in 1575 ( Lord Deputy of Ireland on three occasions):
‘I came to the city of Cork…I departed from thence and encamped in the
country of the Earl of Desmond’s, called Kiriewherie [Kerrycurrihy], and destroyed the same, winning the principal castle thereof, called Carreg-Ilyn [Carrigaline], and left it in a ward.’ (The Grand Tour of Cork, p2).
Blackrock Castle may appear too close to the city on the Pacata Map. Yes, in reality
the castle is further from the city than depicted in Pacata Hibernia; the map is not
drawn to scale. The cartographer probably included Blackrock Castle because it was
an important new line of defence for Cork city at the time. In the late 1500s the
citizens’ of Cork appealed to Queen Elizabeth I to construct a fort at Blackrock to
"repel pirates and other invaders". The present Blackrock castle is a later construction.
Finally, notice naval and merchant ships are flying the St George’s flag (a red cross
on a white background). This is the English flag (not the Cork colours). Ireland is
under English rule at this time. St George is the patron Saint of England.
PACATA HIBERNIA (background)
We’re not sure when exactly the Pacata Hibernia Map of Cork was drawn. It is often referred to as Pacata Hibernia 1585-1600. Here it’s simply called Pacata Hibernia (Circa [around] 1600AD). ‘Pacata Hibernia’ actually doesn’t refer to just one map but to a collection of maps and narratives (stories) relating to places and events (especially events in Munster) relevant to the closing years of the Nine Years War (1585-1603). It was compiled by Thomas Stafford from the papers of Sir George Carew, President of Munster (1600-1603) and published well after the war in 1633AD.
After nine years of fighting, the Irish under O’Neill agreed terms with the English and signed a treaty at Mellifont in 1603AD. One of the key battles which decided the outcome of the Nine Years War was the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 AD. O'Neill submitted to the English in 1603AD and therefore the treaty was somewhat lenient towards the Irish and the full title of the collection: ‘Pacata Hibernia: Ireland Appeased and Reduced’ is somewhat apt. The term Pacata is Latin and it can mean ‘lesser,’ ‘peaceful’ or ‘calm’. The term ‘Hibernia’ meaning ‘winter’ is also Latin and was the name given to Ireland by the Romans. Most of the original Carew collection including Pacata Hibernia is kept at Lambeth Palace library, London. However the Local Studies Department at Cork City Library have an excellent facsimile (copy) of the original Pacata Hibernia Map of Cork which one can view in person or online: simply go to http://www.corkcitylibrary.ie/ click ‘Cork Past and Present’ and ‘Maps and Images.’ The Pacata Hibernia Map of Corke (sic) is one of the earliest known maps of the city.
For further reading see: Atlas of Cork, Eds: J.S. Crowley, R.J.N. Devoy, D. Linehan, P. O’Flanagan, Cork University Press, 2005; Discover Cork by Kieran McCarthy, The O’Brien Press, Dublin, 2003; The Grand Tour of Cork by Cornelius Kelly, Cailleach Books, 2003.Further copies of map (while stocks last) are available at: Easons, Patrick Street; Vibes and Scribes, Lavitt’s Quay; Liam Russell’s, Oliver Plunket Street; Cork Vision Centre, North Main Street; Hills, Douglas SC and Porters, Wilton SC. Price: €19.95. Further copies of this map are also available from John Weldon @ jgpweldon@yahoo.ie
Pacata Hibernia (adapted) Map of Cork circa 1600 AD
THE MIDDLE AGES –CLASSROOM AID
(800 AD-1492 AD)
The term ‘medieval’ comes from the Latin phrase ‘medium aevum’ meaning ‘the middle age’. It roughly spans the period between the inauguration of Charlemagne in 800AD to Columbus’s discovery of the New World in 1492 AD.
The map of Cork (drawn around 1600 AD) still qualifies as an image from the middle Ages because Cork still looked like a medieval city over one hundred years after the Middle Ages had finished. We can learn much about life in Cork during the Middle Ages from the type of buildings that appear on the map:
1. For example we know defence was very important because a number of castles appear on the map and the city is surrounded by high walls and a natural moat created by the river Lee. Roughly how many watch towers are there on the city wall and how many castles can you identify on the map of Cork?
2. We also know that religion was very important because there are many churches both inside and outside the walled city. How many churches can you identify?
3. We know trade was important too to the people of Cork because we can see ships arriving and departing the city. What kind of cargo might the ships be transporting?
4. Finally we can tell that the death penalty was legal because decapitated human heads were placed on spikes on both pedestrian entrances to the city. What sort of crime do you think one would have to commit to be beheaded?
5. What else can you tell from the Pacata Hibernia Map of Cork about peoples’ lives during the Middle Ages?
The Pacata Hibernia Map of Cork is a ‘primary source’ because it was drawn in the period we are studying. You can see it online at http://www.corkcitylibrary i.e. Simply click on ‘Cork Past and Present’ then click on ‘Maps and Images’ then click on ‘Cork in Old Maps’ then click on ‘Pacata Hibernia 1585-1600’ and finally click on ‘PDF format’. You will be able to see the map up close and appreciate its finer detail. Compare the original map with the adapted (laminated A1 full-colour) version.
SOME SUGGESTED CLASSROOM EXERCISES
1. After teacher has presented the ‘adapted’ map to class, students colour in a photocopied unlabelled version (as attached) of the original map. Students then label some important features (as directed by teacher).
2. After teacher has presented the adapted map to class, students study the ‘adapted’ map carefully and complete attached crossword.
3. After studying the middle Ages students write a diary entry. For example:
Imagine you are a visitor to the city of Cork in 1600 AD. You are staying with a friend who is a craftsperson. After lunch he shows you his workshop. You then walk the main street until you reach the city wall; you also visit an abbey outside the city. Write about your day. (Hint: your diary entry should say how your five senses were affected i.e. your sight, hearing, smell, touch and taste).
CROSSWORD
PACATA HIBERNIA (adapted) MAP OF CORK CITY CIRCA 1600AD
CLUES
Across
3. The city wall is approximately _ _ _ mile in circumference.
9. The river makes Cork city an i _ _ _ _ d.
10. Cork’s coat of _ _ _ _ may have come from the King’s and Queen’s Old Castles featured on the map.
11. This is how Cork was spelt in the original Pacata Hibernia Map: _ _ _ _ _.
13. Two _r_ _ b _ _ _ _ _ _ connect the city with the mainland in 1600AD.
15. The _ _ _ _ cinema gets its name from its location near the old North _ _ _ _ Drawbridge.
16. North and South Main streets today were known collectively (together) in the past as the _ _ _ _ street. This was the city centre.
Down
1. Ireland was under English rule in 1600AD. Therefore the ships are flying the Saint _ _ _r _ _’s flag.
2. The two men standing near the South (Gate) Drawbridge are _ _ _ _ _ _ g.
4. Hibernia is the old Roman name for I _ _ _ _ _ _.
5. There are _ _ _ _ human heads in total placed on spikes on the North and South Gate Drawbridges.
6. Saint Patrick’s Street is the main street of Cork city today but in 1600AD it was simply a w_ _ _ _ _ _y outside the city wall.
7. The L_ _ _ _ Studies Department of the Cork City Library has many interesting old maps of Cork to look at including this one.
8. East and west of the city there are wet lands, each known as a _ _ _ _ h.
12. In 1600AD the city is surrounded by the river _ _ _.
14. In 1600AD Cork was a _ _ ll _ _ city.
15. The _ _ _ _ _ Parade where the City Library is located today was also a waterway in 1600AD.
(According to tradition a 17th century cannon gun embedded upside-down in the concrete footpath outside the Bishop Lucy Park today was first used to breach Cork’s walls in 1690AD and later to moor ships (tie ships to).
